Memories of Maasai Mara - 3 Days in the Wild

A lone safari vehicle in the plains of Savannah at the golden hour

Travel

The Globetrotter

|

Narobi - The Gateway to Maasai Mara

Itinerary of our Kenya-Tanzania safari trip can be found here.

The thrill of being in an exotic land like Africa was truly exciting. We arrived in Nairobi with great enthusiasm for the safaris. As a matter of fact, we’ve seen many cities and landscapes around the world, and after a few trips, they can start to feel a bit similar. Kenya was different. From the raw beauty of the land to the warmth of its people, it left us completely captivated. We knew Nairobi was the gateway to the Maasai Mara, but we wanted to see the side of the city that most tourists skip.

We had just a day at our leisure in Nairobi and we had already planned our day. We tried out the authentic Ethiopian cuisine at Gursha that Nairobi is known for. The food was mind blowing especially with the varieties it offered. I love the spiced veggies and legumes which come along with the injera.

We even took a break from reality at the Museum of Illusions, which is a must if you love a good photo op. We spent a good couple of hours there enjoyed the photoptics. Our evening too was well spent at Village Market, a shopping mall near the diplomat housing. We did not buy much from the mall though as it was exorbitantly expensive. In fact, the hotel (Ibis Styles) where we stayed was also quite expensive for the amenities it offered. I later gathered that because of high import duties and the serious security required at major hotels, staying here can be surprisingly pricey.

We, however; ended our day early as we had an early morning start the next day. We were all geared up for Maasai Mara.

The board of Gursha Ethiopian Kitchen in NairobiA spread of injera and other delicacies in Ethiopian cuisine

Injera along with a thali of vegan vegetables and legumes :)

Entrance of Museum of Illusions in Nairobi
Maasai Mara Begins…

The next day started early for us and we were picked up by our safari guide cum driver in a land cruiser which was to be our safari vehicle for the next 3 days. We were taken straight to our lodge in the Mara on good paved roads. The ride was uneventful and quite comfortable

It took around 6 hours to drive that distance (around 250 kms) through Narok county and The Great Rift Valley. Narok town or the county is the gateway to the Maasai Mara National Reserve at a distance of around 140 kms from Nairobi. The region is famous for splendid views, geothermal hotspots, and its vast biodiversity, stretching from the steep escarpments to unique soda lakes. One can spend a day here at leisure to take in its beautiful sights. However, we headed straight to Maasai Mara.

We soon arrived at The Royal Zebra River Safari Lodge and were quite impressed with its hospitality and welcome. The lodging too was spacious with beautifully done verandahs right across the Savannah grasslands. The decor was tastefully done and the suite was provided with all amenities.

Talking about food, we were wonderfully surprised to see authentic Indian food on the menu on a regular basis. Usually when we step out of India, getting Indian vegetarian food on a daily basis is unimaginable. But here it was different. Later, we learnt that almost 60% of the tourists here are Indian and hence the food arrangement. Not that we were complaining!

After a sumptuous lunch, we decided to embark on our very first safari. :)

The sit out at our lodge in Maasai Mara

The sit-out facing the Mara at The Royal Zebra River Safari Lodge.

The uninterrupted view of Mara from our lodge. Many a times, we spotted antelopes, elephants, giraffes and zebras at a distance, sitting in the comfort and security of our lodge.


The Safaris at Mara:

For our three-day Maasai Mara adventure, we had a private open-roof Land Cruiser and a dedicated guide all to ourselves. With seven window seats and a pop-up roof for 360-degree views, we were perfectly equipped for the National Reserve. To beat the dust, we kept the roof sealed on the highways, but once inside the park, it was all about the views.

We typically headed out for two 4-to-6-hour safaris daily—one at the crack of dawn and another in the late afternoon. While we had the flexibility to set our own schedule, we chose to follow the rhythm of the wild. Animals are most active during the cooler 'golden hours,' and we wanted to respect their natural boundaries, leaving the hot afternoons for them to nap in peace.

During our full-day safari expedition, we swapped the lodge for a picnic lunch right in the heart of the savannah. We capped off the trip with a magical bush sundowner, watching the Maasai men dance by the fire. They even pulled my son into the circle for an impromptu dance! Between the 'Big 5' sightings and the onion bhajiyas by the fire, it was an unforgettable trip.

Take a look at my pictorial blog below for a glimpse of the magic!"

The twin alertness in the savannah

The twin alertness in the savannah. Oblivious of the excited humans circling around them :)

The predator's gaze at Maasai Mara

The predator's gaze at Maasai Mara. The leopard was quite alert when we approached it.

Pausing for Majesty - A sundown moment!

Pausing for Majesty - A sundown moment!

The three musketeers of Savannah

The three musketeers of Savannah. We sighted them from our lodge in the Mara.

The 4th Musketeer!

The 4th Musketeer!

Relaxed vigilance at Maasai Mara

Relaxed vigilance at Maasai Mara. We inched very close to this particular cheetah on one of the afternoons but all he did was to raise his head, look at us and go back to sleep :)

Our final safari sighting ended on a haunting note: a lone cheetah calling out with high-pitched, cat-like chirps to an unseen partner or cubs. We lingered for thirty minutes, hoping to see a reunion, but as the sun began to dip below the horizon, we were forced to head back. The mystery of who she was calling remains out there in the wild…

An unperturbed pride - These were 2 young lions walked down a long way across the grassland with us following them.

The antelope, halting midway in its strides, it looks back at us - graceful, curious and alert. Nature's perfect sentry!

The lone ranger of the savannah

The lone ranger of the savannah. We spotted this young tusker right across the plains of our lodge and maybe as I clicked him, did we actually lock eyes?

The mother-baby bonding in Mara

Following in its mother's footsteps towards the lone acacia tree - that is Mara in a single frame for you.

4 Giraffes in Mara creating a striking visual against the plains.

The gap between them made for a striking silhoutte against the plains.

Sundowner at Mara with us and the Maasai men

My son was chosen to be a part of the traditional Maasai dance and he did perform well :)


By the bush for the sundowner, enjoying a Maasai dance

The perfect sundowner with a glass in hand and the uplifting energy of the Adumu (the traditional jumping Maasai dance)

This was at the Kenya-Tanzania border in Maasai Mara where the bleached wildebeest skulls are a testimony to the fact that nature is as unforgiving as it is beautiful.

Gathering of wildebeest across the savannah for the great migration

Thousands of wildebeest carpet the plains, fuelled, focussed, ready to migrate. This is the gathering of The Great Migration


Onwards to Serengeti for The Great Migration

The Great Migration—a perennial journey of over 2 million land animals. It is a perpetual quest for survival, as wildebeest, zebras, and antelopes brave the Mara River in search of greener pastures.

You know the migration is imminent when the plains become a sea of movement and a palpable tension hangs in the air. It was this exact promise of drama—the legendary crossing of the Mara River—that enticed us to undertake the arduous journey to the Serengeti.

Serengeti was another adventure in its own right. As we cross borders from Kenya to Tanzania, the landscape too changes in character and more so in scale. Serengeti rightfully deserves an article of its own. So hang on till I post my next blog…