Halasuru Someshwara Swamy Temple
It was the week of Diwali as well as my birthday week. Hence, I decided to pay a visit to this grand old Someshwara temple situated in Halasuru, right in the heart of Bengaluru. I have recently compiled a list of temples in and around Bengaluru that I want to visit and this particular one was at the top of my list. So why travel afar when beautiful temples lie galore in your own city? I am glad that I could visit it soon enough.
Halasuru or the anglicised ‘Ulsoor’
Halasuru, also known as Ulsoor, is one of the oldest neighbourhoods of Bengaluru . The neighbourhood begins at the eastern end of MG Road and is well-known for its lake which goes by the same name. The temple is located in one of the narrow lanes here. One cannot find car parking immediately in the vicinity of the temple. However, cross the Old Madras Road at the signal of the Ulsoor traffic police station and you can park on the street at no cost. Just a 200-300 metres of walk from the temple.
Temple Address: Ulsoor Rd, Someshwarpura temple, Bengaluru , Karnataka 560008 (Just 2 kms from MG Road)
Temple Timings: 6:00 am to 12:30 pm & 5:30 pm to 9:00 pm, all days of the week.
A Date With History
Different legends have a different tale to tell about this temple. They attribute the construction of this temple to different kings and dynasties in different periods. There are many tales floating around. Is the temple built by the Chola dynasty and is it more than a 1000 years old? Or is it a 16th century temple built by the Vijaynagar chieftain Kempe Gowda, or was it Jayappa Gowda? Legend has it that the chieftain dreamt of Lord Someshwara, who asked him to unearth the treasure under his resting spot in Halasuru and build a temple in his honour.
There is no documentation to arrive at the exact age of temple construction or who constructed it. Even the chief priest of the temple does not know about it. No matter how obscure the history is, the temple is exquisite in its carvings on display.
There have been many renovations to this temple during the Vijaynagar empire under Hiriya Kempe Gowda II. The Kamakshi amma temple is said to have been added later during the rule of the Wodeyars.
Thanks to the renovations, it stands beautifully today.
Photography is prohibited in the main temple of Sri Someshwara. However, I freely clicked pictures outside the main shrine to bring my experiences to you.
The Numerous Shrines of the Halasuru Someshwara Temple
Many yallis are depicted at the bottom of the pillars. Yallis are mythological creatures who combine the features of lion and elephant.
The sanctum sanctorum of Sri Someshwara is attached to a beautiful mantapa of 48 pillars built in the Vijayanagar style. Each pillar is exquisitely carved depicting stories and figures from our puranas. One should not miss the carvings of Ravana lifting Mount Kailash to please Lord Shiva, right at the entrance of the garbhagriha (sanctum sanctorum). Other notable carvings in this temple are the carvings of Devi Durga slaying the demon Mahishasura and that of the Saptarishis in the wedding procession of Lord Shiva (Girija Kalyana). Lord Bramha and Lord Vishnu are also worshipped at this temple along with Maheshwara. The trinity is carved in the girija kalyana procession heading towards Goddess Parvati’s home
There is a Kamashkamma temple to the south and a Navagraha temple to the north of the temple precincts. Apart from Someshwara, there are 4 other Shiva lingas which grace the temple – Bheemeshwara, Nanjundeshwara, Arunachaleshwara and Chandramouleshwara – each signifying a story of its own.
A derelict Kalyani (stepwell) was restored and renovated near the temple in around 2016. This is again believed to be 1200 years old (around the time of the Cholas!) and most likely would have been closed during the British rule.
Halasuru Someshwara temple is indeed an architectural marvel amidst the crowded lanes of Bengaluru. A visit to this oasis of peace and devotion should definitely be on your cards, especially if you are a temple-hopping Bengalurean.