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Hawa Mahal

The honeycombed structure of Hawa Mahal with 5 storeys and 953 jharokas or small windows, each opening out to the busy street below
Hawa Mahal as seen from the busy street
PC: https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Hawa_Mahal_Final_1.jpg
  • Ticket price: Rs 50/Indian; Rs 200/Foreigner
  • Timings: All days of the week from 9 am to 5 pm
  • Address: Hawa Mahal Road, Badi Chaupad, Jaipur, Rajasthan.
  • Phone #: 01412618862
  • Best time to visit: Sunset hours as the rays of the sun cast a glow on the monument.
  • Duration of visit: Approximately 1 hour
  • Houses an impressive archaeological museum in its courtyard

Hawa Mahal – An Iconic Symbol of Jaipur

The name Jaipur quintessentially conjures up an image of the hugely popular Hawa Mahal. It is one of the most visited and unique monuments of erstwhile Jaipur that has combined the concept of physics with architecture in its making. Rising tall to about 50 ft. in height and built with pink and red sandstones, today the majestic Hawa Mahal has become synonymous with the Pink City. The grandeur of the structure today is a standing testimony of Jaipur’s rich Rajput history and cultural heritage.

Scores of documentaries and articles are out on this splendid monument built nearly two centuries ago. Still a visit in person to this architectural masterpiece evokes mixed feelings of pride and marvel for this heritage structure.

A trip to Jaipur is surely incomplete without a visit to the iconic Hawa Mahal ! (No matter how crowded it is)

History of Hawa Mahal

The entrance

It was constructed in the year 1799 by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh, the grandson of the founder of Jaipur. Lal Chand Ustaad was chosen to be the architect of this Mahal. He replicated the Maharaja’s devotion towards Lord Krishna by shaping this particular facade in the shape of Krishna’s crown. Hawa Mahal is inspired by Khetri Mahal of Shekhawati architecture built two decades earlier. That palace is also known as Hawa Mahal and is another architectural marvel in Jhunjhunu, Rajasthan.

Hawa Mahal was commissioned primarily for the convenience of the royal ladies in those days of the purdah system. They could easily observe all the bustling city life and festive processions on the street below and beyond from the privacy of the jharokas without themselves getting noticed. Hawa Mahal is connected to the ladies section (zenana khana) of the City Palace and is an added extension of the palace. Hence, surprising to most of us, the entrance too is from behind the Badi Chaupad (large square) and not from the front. In fact, there is no opening from the front, but from the precincts of the City Palace.

A green jharoka opening into the street below.
A Jharoka peeking into the outside world

Architectural Splendour of Hawa Mahal

A splendid amalgamation of Rajput and Mughal architecture, Hawa Mahal or the Palace of Winds is a beautiful rose-tinted, 5-storied facade built without a foundation. Yes, you read it right!

It is said to be the tallest building in the world (50 ft) without a foundation. Precisely, because of which it is said to be curvilinear in the shape of a crown at an angle of 87 degrees.

Without a Foundation?

This fact has been disputed by the authorities based on an Indian Express article. So what is the truth here? Genuine information would be appreciated in comments.

No Steps?

The five floors are connected using a ramp instead of steps on one side of the facade and the other side apparently has steps. This sounds logical, right? When I visited this monument, we were allowed only from one side which had ramps, and I did not see any steps to go up the floors. May be, the other side of the facade which has steps, is closed to public.

Natural Air Conditioner

The 953 jharokas (windows), big and small, together resembling a honeycomb adorned with intricate lattice (jaali) architecture help keep the palace cool during the scorching summers of Rajasthan. This is based on the Venturi effect which states that constricted air entering the chambers of Hawa Mahal through the lattice work (jaalis) suddenly gets expanded into the numerous courtyards and gives a cooling effect. Add to it the effect of its thin walls made of lime and stone and centrally placed fountains, which naturally cause cooling in the otherwise arid climate of the city.

An open courtyard behind the Hawa Mahal facade of jharokas with a fountain
One of the courtyards with a fountain in the Hawa Mahal

Delving Deep into the Hawa Mahal – A Truth or Deception?

When we visited Hawa Mahal, the queue was long and the monument was crowded. Upon entering its premises, we were greeted with a rather austere monument as opposed to the ornate facade of the palace in the front. What appears to the eye from the busy street below is in stark contrast to what lies within. It is nowhere close to the Sheesh Mahal of Amer, breathtakingly decorated with mirrors. This palace from within is just a maze of corridors, balconies and small rooms to enjoy the breeze and vistas of the beautiful city beyond it.

I was attracted towards the front facade and entered it gingerly as if trying to savour every bit of history and every bit of art that makes this place worthwhile inspite of the insane crowds jostling for space. The stained glass windows and beautiful inlays on the walls and tall archways lend an exotic charm to the place. The stained glass does its magic as it colours the small rooms with its hues, especially during sunrise and sunset, painting it red and green.

Blue Green and Red Stained Glass on a Wall
Stained glass at Hawa Mahal

I hesitantly opened a green jharoka wider, trying not to push too hard lest I damage it, to peer onto the street below. It was crowded. So was Hawa Mahal with hundreds of tourists scrambling for some space to click selfies. This reminded me of the deception the facade hid between the two extreme worlds – one, the world of royalty and other, the world of commons. The royals being obligated to view the beauty of everyday life and celebrations from behind these rather plain-looking windows. Outside the facade, the common man wondering at the lavish lives of these royals from which they were precluded.

Parting Thoughts

I don’t want to end my writing with such profound thoughts on such a beautiful monument. Hence, on a lighter note, would like to advise you to try out shopping in one of the most popular shopping areas of the city. Just step out onto the Badi Chaupad and you will enter a shopping wonderland where you need to haggle, bargain and jostle for your rightful space to enjoy the thrills of street shopping. I am sure, shopaholics wont be disappointed with the varieties that will beckon them. However, just beware of getting cheated and click here to know more about what and where to shop in Jaipur.

So till then..happy traveling!

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