“Rohan, mala parat jaychay, mala var nahi yaycha! Var jaychi kaay garaj aahe???” It means in Marathi, “Rohan, I want to go back. I don’t want to complete the trek. Whats the need? Why take the risk?”
Well, I don’t usually here these words on Naneghat trek, but this time I did and there was a reason behind it.
Naneghat, done ‘n’ number of times earlier, but really haven’t seen such a scenario there, before this one. Well, as they rightly say, each experience is an unique experience!
The group – 25 in number, 19 participants and 6 of us to manage them; an apt ratio of 1:4. Whoa! good figure
And I dare say that ratio was not required. It was very much, considering the heavy down pour, chilly winds, ever increasing levels of water gushing down against us threatening to throw us off balance and the reduced visibility due to very thick fog!
Well, these adjectives (descriptive terms) are not what one usually associate with Naneghat, but this time it was a totally different scene and really kudos to all of the newbiew who did it! So much so, that one other group decided not to descend down and stay back at Ghatghar village come what may. That was the scene atop, if you can gauge. Words are insufficient to describe.
Let’s trace back to the humble beginnings now -
Embarking bytes:
Most of the participants assembled on the scheduled time at 6.00 AM at Dadar. The bus departed on it’s way without much delays and zipped along the Eastern-Express highway before reaching Kalyan. The food and breakfast preparations took some time and hence a delay of around 40 minutes at Kalyan. It was 8.00 AM and everything done and set. All of us in the bus, headcounts and go!
Soon we zipped past Murbad and soon we reached Tokavade. A brief tea-break and we reached the base of the ghat, from where our bi-ped sojourn began.
All things wrapped in the plastic. Water-tight! The lush green ambiance along with the occasional chirping of birds, cool gust of winds, overcast conditions and such a blissful environ.. Following a brief introductory session to break the ice, few basic instructions were delivered and then beagn the trudge, it was 10.15 AM by then. Ignorant of what the next 3 hours had in store for us, we proceeded with zeal and enthusiasm.
About Naneghat:
Standing 2800 feet above the mean sea level, the thumb shaped pinnacle of Naneghat is a very popular landmark, and now a well thronged trekking destination too among Mumbaikars and Punekars.
The historical significance attatched to it dates back to the B.C. era when Satvahana dynasty reigned over. Also the easy accessibility and good connectivity makes this a very popular destination. Couple these factors with easy trek, good caves and panaromic view and the entire package becomes very very attractive.
The trek begins:
The initial minutes were chilled out and cool. The thumb shaped pinnacle of Naneghat seemed a bit too far fetched for most newbiews and the time 2.5 hours seemed improbable. But the enthusiasm was contagious.
Enroute, we crossed two small streams slightly ahead and continued further. The bushes on the lower slopes were thick and those typical striped jungle mosquitoes played havoc for the ones with half sleeves and shorts. Itching and scratching the group continued ahead
The intermittent drizzling pacified the gradually increasing gradient. About and hour and half on the inclined gradient and we reached the upper plateau.
The rains and the flowing water:
The ‘kaccha paaywaat’ gave way to boulder riddled water way and the heavy rains transformed a seemingly simple route into a tricky and slippery one. The rains gradually increased in intensity and so did the gushing waters on our route. The stones became slippery and finding a firm footing on them to continue ahead became more and more difficult for the group. Still it was great fun for them to be wading through the gushing water and take a dip below the numerous waterfalls enroute, quenching their parched souls!
Around and hour of wading against the heavy flow and we reached the final slopes of the ghat. We could feel the impending heavy rain threatening to lash out at any point in time. The fog thickened and visibility reduced. However, before the rains lashed at us we made it to the caves and aah.. relaxed. Around 3 hours of trek, and most of it wading over the slippery rocks through the flowing gush!
Lunch time:
Completely drenched, water dripping off our clothes, feelling the chills down the spine whenever the gust of wind passed by and hungry stomachs waiting to explode on any edibles that come across. The entire frame was just dynamic!
And then were unwrapped the food packets, plates distributed… rotis, sabji, pulav and gulab jamuns! Aahaa… savoured to the core.
The ‘Ranjan‘
The rain did increase a bit by then, but did not look too bothering. The narrow rock cut gorge looks amazing to look at and the blurring fog further added the mysterious charm to it. We carefully negotiated the slippery incline of the gorge and as it expanded to a vast plateau – lush green and chilly with strong winds!
There lay the stone vessel, ‘Ranjan‘ used to collect the toll in the yesteryears when traders used this route to serve their transportation purposes. A small temple hewn in the scarp of the pinnacled massif on the right.
Nanacha Angtha:
The top of the pinnacle was our destination and we marched towards it. The fog thickened gradually and visibility further reduced, so much so that we could hardly guage the terrain beyond a few metres. It took us approximately 15 minutes to reach the top of the pinnacle ‘Nanacha Angtha’. The view, aaha.. not more than 3 metres beyond and then it was just a white-out! Cold winds, myopic visions and drenched souls. The aura was overwhelming.
It had started to rain heavily by now and just 10 minutes on the top and we decided to start our descent.
The turbulent gorge:
We got to the base of the thumb and approached the gorge… and then came one of the most amazing sights that I have never seen on my previous 18 visits to this magnificent place. The gorge, which barely 30 minutes back was a boulder ridden alley, had been transformed into a gushing stream filled with turbulence. The sound of the water, the rapid flow, the effervescence and frothing of the stream and thick fog all seemed scary to most of the souls as they stood there stunned and wondering what next? How to get down? How to get back? Should we attempt it?
NO was loud and clear albeit it was muffled within their minds and not audible to anyone else. Yes was loud and clear and it emanated from us and clearly audible and comprehensible to one and all. We had to move and it was safe was our assurance and all of them had to follow.
The assurance:
It was a difficult task to help and assure all the members to actually wade through a turbulent stream and helping them through that was even more difficult a task. We did it and once into the safe environs of the cave, all the members were like … aahh.. we are safe!
The rain hadn’t receded by then, and the water gush was constantly threatening, atleast it seemed to be doing so. But after a brief while, we egged them to continue and pulled a few of them out of their virtual shells. And we moved on further …
The descent:
The rains gradually reduced and so did the flow of the water and the descent suddenly started to appear much easier. The steps paced up faster and the dampened spirits livened up. We quickly descended to about halfway and realized that the rain had stopped completely. The fog had cleared and the thumb shaped Nanacha Angtha was look at his majestic best – tall, imposing and inviting! We continued further, ofcourse with look of mud mud ke peeche dekhna (looking back and casting a glance) at the majestic pinnacle.
It took us approximately 3 hours to reach the base. Hunger had created a vacant space in most of the tummies out there and some vada-pav’s at Tokavade were inevitable. A cup of hot tea to top it was just as good as it gets.
Having said and done most of the things, the adieu time came and we bid farwell to each other. It was a wonderful trek and etched in memories for reasons varied. I personally wish to have all of the group members again to accompany me on all of my treks!
Cheers to the team and Cheers to Naneghat!
More pictures here