Aamti (A Maharashtrian toor dal preparation)

In my mom’s house, we call this aamti – “Kusum tai’s aamti”. Smt. Kusumtai Kshirsagar, was an elderly neighbour of ours in Kalyan when I was a little girl. She always used to give us a vaati  (bowl) of this aamti whenever she prepared it. Being South Indians, we hardly ever made this Maharashtrian aamti. However, I and my brother grew very fond of her aamti, and till date, we remember her whenever we make this type of dal. Aamti + bhaat + toop = Heaven 😀

My simple yet delicious lunch of aamti, bhaat, toop and karela fry

 

Aamti bhaat with toop (ghee)

In those days, it was quite common to see neighbours drop by to share their culinary preparations with us. Be it the everyday aamti, exquisite puranpolis to home made masalas; sharing food was a popular way of expressing camaraderie. Borrowing too was quite common and a neighbour  eventually turned up every now and then at our house  with an empty vaati in her hand asking for saakhar (sugar), or salt, and also sometimes green chillies! Well, those memories are definitely cherished by me now when I live in a world of super convenience where every single thing gets delivered to my door step. I still remember how our immediate neighbour used to come to our house asking for a little helping of sambar when its aroma  wafted from our kitchen window over to her house. Those were the days of sharing and caring 🙂

The Marathi word for sour is ‘ambat’ and thats the origin of the word aamti. Well, aamti is a dal preparation which is supposed to be slightly sour and sweet. Some like it sour, some like it sweet but both the tastes are strictly required to make it a delectable dish.

Here goes the recipe:

Toor dal – 1 cup cooked and mashed

1 small finely tomato chopped

Kokum concentrate* or tamarind pulp – 1 tsp or as per taste

Sugar or jaggery – as per taste

Goda masala – half to 3/4th of a tsp

Salt – to taste

For the tempering:

Peanut Oil – 1 tbsp

Mustard seeds – 1 small tsp

Hing – a pinch

Haldi – half a tsp

Chilly powder – half a tsp

Green chilly chopped – 1 to 2 or as per taste

Kadhi patta or curry leaves – 4 to 5 in number

Method:

Prepare the tadka and when the mustard seeds start spluttering, add the other ingredients under tadka and let their flavours seep in the oil for a minute or two. Immediately, then add the chopped tomatoes and let it get cooked for another couple of minutes. Then add the mashed toor dal along with the other condiments of sugar, kokum and salt. Add water to adjust the consistency and let it boil. Finally add the goda masala and again allow it to boil for another few minutes. Switch off the gas and garnish it with chopped coriander leaves.

Note: Kindly do not substitute goda masala with any garam masala, for that is the ingredient which imparts that authentic taste to this dish. One can add onions, ginger, peanuts to this dal as per their liking. Peanuts when added here should be boiled along with the dal initially.

*Make sure the Kokum concentrate has no sugar added to it.

 

 

 

 

Halebidu – A Glimpse into our Magnificent Past

What’s in Halebidu:

Halebidu is a small little town located in the Hassan district of Karnataka, popular for its twin temples of the Hoysala dynasty. Hale = old and bidu = abode, stands for old abode or old capital. Our guide told us it’s also known as ‘Dwarasamudra’ – (entry by sea) and I started wondering how could a samudra (sea) come in this place! Later I was told that a huge tank was built here by King Vinayaditya of the Hoysala dynasty.  As per historical records, the Hoysalas ruled from Belur (17 kms from Halebidu) along the banks of the Yagachi river. Later, King Vinayaditya built a canal to channelize water from the Yagachi river to a newly built tank along the banks of which Halebidu flourished.

Now that explains why it was also known as Dwarasamudra! The tank is long gone now and all that can be seen are lush green fields surrounding the temple complex.

 

The Hoysala period boasts of numerous exquisitely carved temples. It is said that more than 1500 temples were built during their reign out of which hardly 100 survive today. Halebidu twin temples is one of the Hoysala trio of temples which have been proposed to be listed as UNESCO World Heritage Sites. The other two proposed temples can be seen at Belur and Somnathapura. The intricate details of these temples are simply jaw dropping! It is difficult to describe the exquisite handiwork of the talented craftsmen. No wonder, these temples are huge tourist attractions from world over.

How to reach Halebidu from Bangalore:

Its a refreshing drive of about 3.5 hours from Bangalore. Halebidu is 210 kms from Bangalore and the drive on NH75 is a breeze. SH21 was okay. Love our National Highways… State Highways need to catch up! We could easily cruise (literally!) at speeds of more than 100 kmph on NH75.

The Shiva Temples:

The twin temples of Hoysaleshwar and Shantaleshwara stand tall and glorious as a mute testimony to the grandeur of the past. These Shiva temples named after the King and Queen Shantala Devi respectively, are located in the same complex and are still unfinishe. It is said that the work on these temples were interrupted by numerous wars the Hoysalas had to wage to defend their empire. 850+ years later these temples are still almost intact and active, housing the large monolithic Nandis facing the Shiva lingas.d.  The temples stand on an elevated platform which has 64 corners and shaped like a star.  The geometry of this soapstone structure is simply accurate in every detail. The temple walls are covered with deities depicting tales of our Hindu mythologies from Ramayana, Mahabharatha and others. Similarly, in Belur, the temple walls are adorned with sculptures of apsaras depicting the lifestyle of those times, replete with shringar (fashion), dressing style, hair style and much more.

As we enter the temple complex finding our way through the numerous vendors selling guidebooks and knick knacks, we are welcomed by a lush green lawn and paved pathways leading to the entrance. On one side, it houses a museum collection of numerous awe inspiring sculptures of deities which were once a part of this magnificent architecture.

The entrance today

 

Dwarapalakas at the entrance. This was the entrance of the Hoysala kings in those days and now is at the opposite end of the entrance today.

 

The Dwarapalakas (guards at the entrance) are so exquisitely carved but unfortunately were destroyed when it was attacked by Malik Kafur in the 13th century. The Archaeological Survey of India tried to repair the damage in vain. I guess perfection cannot be repaired. They could not conceal the damage done, in a graceful way and left it as it is.

Photography inside the temple premises is prohibited. After taking darshan and teerth, we proceeded to hire a guide who was very good with her work. With her near perfect English, she walked us around the complex describing every little detail with great interest and enthusiasm. It took us around 2 hours to see the temple at our own slow pace.

I am portraying some of the carvings below. A look at it will make you wonder the patience and talent of the craftsmen then. Not only were they adept sculptors but were also proficient in mythologies and other art forms prevalent then. A beautiful sculpture of a Bharatnatyam dancer reveals how knowing the dance steps and the correct posture was essential to the correct portrayal of the dancing sculpture.

Bharatnatyam dancer with the correct posture. A look at its feet reveals the details with which the posture and curvature of the foot is captured. The proud expression on her face also leaves us amazed. Queen Shantala Devi herself was an accomplished Bharatnatyam dancer and used to perform in these temples.

 

Uma Maheshwar (usually the deity couple is seen standing in most other temples)

 

Chakravyuh of Mahabharata, where Abhimanyu, the son of Arjuna, entered but could not come out.

 

Govardhangiri – one of the highly commended sculptures at Halebidu

 

Erotic sculpture – reveals how temples in those days were educational centres and sex education was not considered a taboo.

 

The filigree sculptures portraying various Hindu deities and Jain tirthankars together. Jainism and Hinduism coexisted peacefully then [even today:)].
Varaha avatar, an avatar of Lord Vishnu, killing a demon. A look at the demon below reveals the vast attention to details – see his eyes are protruding out and even the facial expressions are taken care of!

 

Hoysaleshwar Nandi. This and the adjacent Shantaleshwar Nandi are one of the largest monolithic Nandis found in India

The temple visit was fantastic. We also visited Jain basadis (situated within a kilometer), dedicated to Jain tirthankars – Parshavanatha, Shantinatha and Adinatha. These basadis or temples were all built in between the 11th and 14th century.  Unlike the Shiva temples, the basadis were not crowded and only a few Jain devotees were singing a holy song in the premises. It was amazing to experience the solitude of these ancient temples.

Two – three hours is all it takes to enjoy these temples but it leaves behind memories of a lifetime! This visit impressed me greatly and makes me all the more proud of our Indian heritage.

 

A few tips:

  1. It’s a one day trip from Bangalore and NH 75 is really good to cruise at high speeds. The other Hoysala temple at Belur is just 17 kms away and can be combined with this trip.
  2. There are no decent eateries nearby but yes, one does get corn, sugarcane juice, cucumber slices etc. just outside the temple. Suggest to eat on NH 75 which are lined up with various restaurants.
  3. There is no entry fee to the temple but the museum visit does require one to buy tickets, which again are nominally priced.
  4. Government guides are easily available inside the temple and charge a fixed rate of Rs 300/-

 

Mediterranean pizza

A good after-school snack for kids with the goodness of hummus, vegetables and cheese! Not only pretty but yummy too. My son comes home from school and smells around saying -“something nice is baking in the oven!” I am a bit apprehensive if he would like this twist in the pizza with hummus and olives in it…and he loves it!

Here is the recipe from a happy mom:

Hummus:

Chickpeas (kabuli chana) – 1 cup. To be soaked overnight and cooked soft

A dash of lemon juice – as per your liking

Thick curd – 4-5 tbsp

Olive oil – 1 tbsp

Red chilli-garlic paste (the one used in bhel puri) – 2-3 tsp (as per your liking)

Jeera powder – 1/2 tsp

Salt – to taste

Method:

Add all the above ingredients in a mixer and grind it smooth. The hummus  should be smooth and of this consistency:

Hummus

Ingredients for the pizza:

  1. Hummus – to apply on the pita bread as the base sauce
  2. Pita breads – 6 in number. I used the ready-made ones
  3. Juliennes of red, yellow and green capsicum –  1-1.5 cup
  4. Sliced onions – 1/3 cup
  5. Black pitted olives, sliced
  6. Grated mozzarella cheese (Amul, Milky Mist) – around 2 cups
  7. Sesame seeds – to sprinkle on the pizza ( I did not use it)
  8. Garlic bread seasoning OR oregano powder
  9. Red chilli flakes

Assembling the pizza:

Spread the hummus on the pita breads in generous quantities. Top it with veggies, onions and olives. Add the grated cheese, again in generous quantities. Sprinkle the seasoning, chilli flakes and sesame seeds on the top. Bake it in the oven for around 15 minutes at 180 C till the cheese melts and starts changing colour a bit. Towards the end, broil/grill it for a couple of minutes.

 

Enjoy!

 

South Africa – Part II (Garden route & Kruger)

Kruger National Park was on our bucket list of destinations for a long time now. We were waiting for our little one to grow up a bit so that he could truly understand and enjoy the wildlife sightings there. Kruger was the highlight of our South African trip but once there, one cannot afford to miss Cape Town and Garden Route. Cape Town was a beautiful beginning to a memorable vacation and from there, off we started on the 2nd leg of our journey through the panoramic Garden Route.

Garden Route

Nope..don’t go by its name. This route is not associated with any gardens as such but it is a 300-km stretch along the south-western coast of South Africa, between Cape Town and Port Elizabeth.

Along the Garden route

 

1) Mossel Bay

Our first destination on this route was Mossel Bay, some 400 kms from Cape Town. Driving was a breeze on the well-maintained roads and we reached our destination in under 6 hours. This is the very place where the first European, Bartolomeu Diaz landed his foot on the South African soil in 1488. There is a museum complex by his name which houses some interesting remnants of this past, including the life-size replica of the caravel which Diaz and his crew used for their voyage.

Mossel bay is also known for its prehistoric archaeological remains dated as far back as 164,000 years! There are caves here which have revealed evidence of it being the ‘birthplace of human culture’. The Point of Human Origins is an archaeological tour offered at these caves from near the Pinnacle point beach and is quite well reviewed.   We were supposed to go on this guided tour but unfortunately heavy rains and the slippery path cancelled our tour. Nevertheless, we did lunch at the restaurant there (@ the Pinnacle Point Beach & Golf Resort) and had our share of some super delicious fig pizzas. Gain some, lose some…, right?

Pinnacle point beach, Mossel Bay

Mossel bay was great fun inspite of the rains because of its AWESOME views. The vast expanse of the Indian ocean with waves dashing along the cliffs made for an unforgettable view from the beautifully manicured lawns of the resort. We spent about 2-3 hours in the resort and headed to George (city) for our overnight halt.

2) Oudtshoorn

We stayed for two nights at George which is an hour-long drive from Mossel Bay. Next day, early morning we started for Oudtshoorn to reach Cango caves, which are located in the Swatberg mountain ranges. After around 2 hours of circuitous driving, we reached the caves and were ready to be amazed.

Words will not do justice to the evocative dripstone formations inside this underground wonder world. All the chambers are illuminated and beautifully highlight the natural decor formed here. Some of the stalactites and stalagmites are more than millions of years old and resemble the modern works of art. Aptly, they have been named so too. Madonna, Child formation, Cleopatra’s needle which is 9m long formation, Leaning tower of Pisa and many such popular names have been attributed to those fantastic formations. We chose to do the standard tour over the adventurous one which requires one to crawl along the rocky terrain through claustrophobic holes! An hour-long trip inside leaves one dripstone-struck 🙂

Bushmen habitat @ Cango caves, Outdshoorn

Cango caves

The cango caves with its impressive stalagmites and stalactites

The next plan for the day was to visit an working Ostrich farm in Oudtshoorn and see these wonderful flightless birds. Riding on ostriches is now banned by the government there and I am quite glad about that. However, the ban left me wondering who would have anyways dared to ride on such huge, super fast birds! We took a guided tractor tour in the huge breeding farm and were amazed to know some interesting facts about them … like did you know that their eggs are so huge and strong that do not break even if a fully grown human stands on them? Wait! however, if you dash them around, they will crack!

No, you can’t break it!
The big and strong ostriches

The farm has a big curio shop selling candle stands made from ostrich eggs, ostrich-feather dusters, pens, leather bags made from their tough skins and so many more things. I purchased a beautiful ostrich egg candle stand which adorns a table in my living room today! The pics and such momentos make for some lovely memories over time.

3) Knysna

Next day we hopped over (not literally :P) to Knysna (pronounced as Nice..naa) stopping briefly at one Redberry Farm for some fun. We did strawberry picking there although it was a bit early in the season for it. But still, we managed to collect a lot of sweet, juicy strawberries for us to munch on.

Knysna is well known for its ‘Kynsna Heads’ which are a pair of sandstone cliffs dramatically rising from the sea and guarding the entrance of the lagoon from the vast ocean. We drove along the headlands adjoining the Heads and then walked gingerly on the Leisure Isle beach, avoiding the zillions of baby crabs playing there in the waters.

The evening walk along the beach was a very lovely one, offering beautiful views of the Heads on one side and of picturesque, whitewashed villas on the other. Some experiences which seem simple and not so noteworthy, sometimes gives one the greatest joy. They cannot be easily described in words; only can one feel and live the experience. The fact that we ( I and my husband) were enjoying the walk without a care in the world, frolicking behind our son like  small children, clicking pictures all around us, and enjoying the magical moments of it all, made it a walk to remember for our life times.

Knysna heads

4) Plettenberg Bay

Well, the Garden route journey definitely warrants a mention of Plettenberg bay and the lovely hiking trails, sanctuaries and adventure activities it offers. We did visit the Elephant Sanctuary and were delighted to get really up close with the elephants. We could touch them, feed them and walk along with them. The guides were friendly and we felt quite safe throughout our adventure. The group matriach, Sally, commanded a lot of respect from me. The way she managed her herd and led them by example in each and every task, calls for a leadership class from her 😉

With Sally at the sanctuary

Many tourists to South Africa skip Garden route and directly go for Kruger from Cape Town. But if you have the luxury of time, then please do not skip this scenic route. It offers a lot to satisfy one’s travel lust. From beautiful views, adventure activities to wild forests and fauna, the route offers it all.

Fantastic Kruger

From Garden route, we flew to Johannesburg and then proceeded to Kruger. Kruger is a different world of its own and one has to experience its wilderness in person to enjoy it truly. The sightings of animals, the thrill of tracking at the wee hours of sunrise & sunset, the feeling of wild animals lurking around close, all has to be experienced by oneself.

However, I would definitely like to add one funny incident we had with the wild elephants. We were in our safari jeep in the midst of a herd of elephants. Old elephants, adult elephants, adolescents, babies, they were all there. It was a big herd of around 15-20 elephants scattered all over, enjoying their meal of bushes and leaves. We were in a open-air jeep with 8 tourists including us, a guide and a tracker with their guns. We were strictly warned to not make noise or get up from our seats no matter what happened as this act of ours supposedly scares the animals and they might attack us.

In the midst of the wild herd

So we were all seated in our seats surrounded by elephants and enjoying their joyful antics until it was time for us to make a move. Our jeep, was a sturdy Land Rover which could crush any small bush in our path and make way for us in that arid bushy area. When the tracker crushed a large bush under our Jeep, one of the adolescent elephants just 2 feet away from us, got irritated and trumpeted loudly, signalling us to leave. The tracker and the guide were calm but worry was writ large on our faces. Again, the elephant trumpeted so loudly that it made my little son jump up in his seat and clamber up on my lap. Later we were explained that adolescent elephants get easily irritated and trumpeting is the best way they can warn us. Most of the animals, except leopards and wild bulls, tend to warn their opponents before attacking. Glad that nature does have its way of warning the lesser (in terms of strength) animals.

It was funny the way my son panicked, jumped and got on my lap but it did teach us to respect nature and the might of these wild animals. When in jungle, obey the rules of the jungle or court trouble! The safaris and such kind of interactions with these animals taught us a lot in terms of their habitat, their behaviour, their getting adapted to the constant tourist incursions, and also made us realise the sad truth of poaching.

Kambaku safari lodge
The breakfast spread at Kambaku
Leopard staring at us after a good meal
Lion guarding his kill

These pictures tell much more than just words! 🙂 Most pics were taken from a distance of less than 5 feet from our open-air jeep. So do plan out this thrilling South Africa and Kruger trip soon. It is a must-do trip in your lifetime..Adios!

 

Tips:

  1. Stayed at Oobai Hotel, Golf & Spa at George to cover Mossel bay and Outdshoorn.
  2. Rented an Air BnB at Kynsna along the waterfront to cover Knysna and Plettenberg Bay
  3. Getting vegetarian food along the Garden Route was a bit difficult as compared to Cape Town. We tried Mexican, Thai, Italian and Portuguese food for vegetarian options in and around the place. Zomato app was a true life saver on these occasions. We did not find any Indian options as they were far and few and also closed on Sundays.
  4. Hot chocolate is one of the must-try drinks while in South Africa. The rich, chocolatey taste is sure raving about.
  5. At Kruger National Park, we stayed at Kambaku Safari Lodge in Timbavati Private Nature Reserve. Timbavati is contiguous with the larger Kruger area and so the animals are not restricted in any one area but free to move from one part of the reserve to another. Sighting is purely on chance and on the skills of the tracker and guide. We were lucky to see all the Big 5 (Leopard, Lion, Giraffe, Rhino, Elephants) up & close in under 3 safaris. Kambaku conducts 2 safaris and a bush walk daily. Food, obviously is taken care of at the Safari Lodge and they do customise it for us as well :).

 

 

Lepakshi – the temple of legends and architectural marvels

Shikhara of the main temple

As the legend goes, Lepakshi – the Vijaynagar era temple, is the place where Jatayu, the vulture, fell  wounded while trying to save Sita from the clutches of the demon king, Ravana. ‘Le-pakshi’ in Telegu means: ‘Rise – O – bird’. These were the words which Lord Rama uttered on seeing Jatayu injured in that condition.

This legend is surely fascinating and so is the temple architecture and its murals. The half- a century old temple is situated in the Anantapur district of Andhra Pradesh, some 120 kms north of Bangalore. Dedicated to Lord Veerabhadra, Bhadrakali, Vishnu and Lakshmi, this temple is well-known for its hanging pillar and India’s largest monolithic granite-sculpted Nandi.

Lepakshi is about an hour-long drive from North Bangalore on the lovely Bangalore-Hyderabad highway (NH44). Cruising at a speed of little more than 100 kmph, we reached Anantpur at about 10 in the morning. Taking cues from the signboards, we turned left off the highway onto Lepakshi Road and passed a few charming villages before being welcomed by  the granite monolithic Nandi some 200 metres from the main temple. We parked near the Nandi enclosure next to the APTDC Haritha hotel. As soon as we stepped out of our car, we were greeted by a couple of monkeys and a group of kids who followed us demanding money. We soon enough realised what they really wanted and bought all of them ice cream from a vendor nearby. The happy faces waved at us as we proceeded on.

The Nandi is ornately carved from a single block of granite, with a height of 4.5 m and a length of 8.23 metres, making it the largest monolithic Nandi in India.It is bedecked with bells, earrings, chains and other jewellery and it faces the shiva linga inside the temple premises, some 200 metres away. Another monolithic Nandi, probably the second largest in India (need to verify the fact here), faces the Virupaksha temple from the bazaar lane of Hampi. Interestingly, both these monolithic bulls are the architectural marvels from the bygone Vijaynagar era.

We walked over to the temple which is atop a small hillock known as Kurma sailam (tortoise shaped hill). The sanctum sanctorum houses the main shrine of Veerabhadra (a fearsome form of Shiva), Bhadrakali, Vishnu and Laxmi. The murals on the ceilings are still visible and are partly intact in places with all their colors and forms. Their mere glimpse depicting the everyday way of life then, clothing, social events, musicians, processions, etc. transport us to that glorious, royal past. I desisted from clicking pictures inside the garba griha to do my bit to preserve the remainder of the murals. The murals are fading away and are in urgent need of restoration. Right outside the main temple hall lies the Ranga mantapa or the 100-pillared dance hall with its exquisitely carved pillars.

Another interesting aspect of this temple is its hanging pillar which hangs from the ceiling without touching the ground! No, no it not defective.  The Archaeological Survey of India had demonstrated that the pillar was not defectively built but was specially constructed this way to highlight the sheer brilliance of the architects of their time. One can easily pass a sheet of cloth or paper from underneath the pillar and verify the truth.

Hanging pillar
Pic Courtesy: http://eccetrav.com/the-mystery-behind-the-hanging-pillar-of-lepakshi/

To the left of the main shrine, lies the Kalyana mantapa which as per records, was never completed. However, the exquisite carvings adorning the pillars of the mantapa leaves one, still, spellbound. Below the elevated Kalyana mantapa is a big, right footprint considered to be Devi Sita’s footprint. The footprint is always wet with some water seeping in through the rocks. No one knows the source of this water supply nearby. Interesting, right?

Sita’s footprint

The brilliance of the architecture manifests itself in every nook and corner of this temple. There is a huge Ganesha carved out on the other side of the mantapa.  A shivalinga canopied by a hooded, 7-headed naga is another marvel carved on the other side.

Ganesh
West side of the temple premises

Legends abound this temple as does the beauty of its carvings. The temple was built by brothers Virupanna and Veeranna during the rule of king Achyutraya of the Vijaynagar empire. It is said that Virupanna, who was a royal treasurer, misappropriated the funds from the royal treasury for the construction of the temple without the approval of the king. The infuriated king, as a punishment, ordered Virupanna to be blinded for his act. When Virupanna heard of the punishment, he himself carried it out by dashing his eyes against the walls of the temple. Even to this day, the two (supposedly) gory blood marks on the temple walls stand a mute testimony to this legend. After this incident, the temple construction came to a standstill and the Kalyana mantapa (wedding hall) and other structures remained unfinished.

Unfinished kalyana mantapa

The beautiful carvings in the Kalyana mantapa

One requires about 2-3 hours to explore the temple and enjoy the carvings. We did not see any guides around in the vicinity in the temple. However, as per other blogs and travel sites, guides are supposedly available to help us get around.

There is just one APTDC restaurant in the vicinity, Haritha, which did not have any variety in their menu.  So we decided to head back towards Bangalore without trying it out. We pulled over at Nandi Upachara restaurant near Nandi hills  for lunch and were not disappointed with their fare. We even chanced upon Shri. Ravi Shankar Prasad at the restaurant and managed to click a selfie with him. For the uninitiated, he is the Union Minister for Law and IT presently. 🙂

Lepakshi is a half-day trip from Bangalore and a enjoyable one! Not to be missed by the residents of Bangalore for sure.

Tips:

  1. Route: Bangalore North -> Bellary Road ->NH44, towards Hyderabad for about 100 kms. There are a couple of tolls on this road. Take a left diversion as per the signboard in Anantapur district of Hyderabad and drive around 16kms on Lepakshi road to reach the temple.
  2. Carry sun protection like hats, sunglasses and skin creams as it gets really hot there, especially during summers.
  3. There are no restaurants except APTDC’s Haritha in the vicinity. So it is advisable to pack food for your trip there.

Our South African adventure in Cape Town – I

Our 2-week visit to this southern country of the African continent, commenced with Cape town, then proceeded on to the  beautiful coasts along the Garden route, and ended with a thrilling safari in Kruger National Park.

Cape Town

Cape town is a beautiful coastal city at the tip of the African continent. The sights here are incredibly beautiful – a combination of sun & sand with cliffs & beaches is a win-win combination any day!  The city mesmerises the onlooker with its abundance of natural beauty. Not only does this place offer beautiful vistas but there are also ample of things to do in and around this vibrant town. Taking a peek into its rich but turbulent cultural history, engaging in various adventure activities like shark-cage diving, to savouring its local cuisine which is a melting pot of its multicultural delicacies  – this city offers it all.No! we did not do shark-cage diving at that time of the year.

The Victoria & Alfred (V&A) waterfront is one such happening place, which especially comes alive at night! Set against the Table mountain, this waterfront boasts of numerous shops and restaurants selling a variety of food options and local wares. A big Cape Wheel adds to the fun and character of the area. There is a food market right opposite the Cape Wheel which is quite popular with the locals and tourists alike. The market sells all kinds of food including ostrich and other exotic meats. Meats that I had never heard of before and I started wondering what can a vegetarian like me would eat in this part of the world 😉 Then we saw this little Samoserrie!  – a counter selling small samosas with various kinds of fillings, both of the veg and non-veg type. Our first evening in Cape town had indeed begun on a wonderful note.

@ V&A Waterfront

 

Samoserrie

The next day started early for us as we were going to trek the Table mountain. Wrapped in jackets to beat the 6 degrees celsius chill, we started driving towards this natural wonder. The mountain’s summit is flat like a table; however the climb was pretty steep.  It took us (not regular climbers) close to 3 hours before our guide, Steffi, could coax us to get up there. As the climb became more steep, she encouraged us all the more to put our best foot forward (pun definitely intended!)

Simon’s bay (village) as seen from the Table Mountain

Once atop the flat tablescape, the views surrounding us were superbly fascinating. Our jackets were long gone during the climb and we were trying to cool ourselves in the chill up there. We thanked heavens to find a small restaurant serving some good food which was badly needed. We had a ravenous appetite by the time we entered the restaurant. It is a great place for a leisurely breakfast after conquering the 1,085 m high Table mountain. We were, however, wise enough to take the cableway down the mountain. 😉

That afternoon, we had an amazing vegetarian lunch at a Eritrean (Ethiopian) restaurant in the City Bowl. A couple of beggars followed us down the street begging for alms which alarmed us a bit, but that was about it. We did not encounter any such incident during our entire stay in the country thereafter. The restaurant was bang in the middle of Greenmarket square, a local flea market. This market in the heart of Cape Town’s CBD is the place where local traders and artists flaunt their fabrics, sculptures, art and beadwork at reasonable prices. Bargaining, I was told, is accepted in South Africa but hardcore bargaining is something that one should refrain from so as to not offend the local sellers. Surrounded by beautiful wares, we could not resist our urge of shopping and ended up buying some local fabrics and wooden bowls as souvenirs of our stay there.

Eritrean lunch (vegetarian) – consisted of a injera (bread), with shiro(legumes) and alicha (legumes and vegetables); served in a communal plate

 

A local vendor at his stall in Greenmarket Square

 

Another stall @ Greenmarket Square

 

The Majestic Table Mountain from V&A waterfront

The evening took us to Kirstenboch Botanical Garden – a beautiful garden, beautifully located against the eastern slopes of Table mountain. In fact, the entire Cape Town is situated  along the Table mountain. No matter in which corner of the city you go, you will find the Table mountain towering tall above you 🙂 This garden is  must-visit in Cape Town with its majestic location at the foothills of the mountain.  

Another recommended activity while in Cape Town is to drive along the M6/Victoria Road. This road runs from Cape Town along the 12 Apostles mountain range all the way to Hout Bay. The drive on this road along the coast was a spectacular experience with fabulous views of palatial homes and pristine beaches along the coastline.

Vistas as seen from Victoria Road

We thoroughly enjoyed our morning drive to Hout Bay and decided to visit the World of Birds Wildlife Sanctuary and Monkey Park, situated there. It is the largest bird park in Africa and an informative park to hang out with your little one. We had an amazing and also an ‘safe’ experience there – with little monkeys jumping over us in a caged area with a park official standing beside us. My little one too jumped around with the monkeys, feeding them. Never had such a close experience with monkeys, anywhere before. It was just about noon by the time we exited the park and decided that we have plenty of time to go down south and visit the Cape of Good Hope Reserve.

So off we set towards Simon’s town where we had a quick halt to grab some lunch. The town is a charming little place set on the coasts of Indian ocean and offers some good food options. Further on, along the way we decided to visit Boulder’s beach which is a haven for the endangered South African penguins. The beach is a protected area,and rightly so. We purchased tickets to enter the reserve and had a gala time watching the penguins playing with the waves and amongst themselves. Seeing the penguins waddle along the wet sands lifted our spirits no end!

South African penguins @ Boulder’s beach

Our next destination for the day was the famous Cape of Good Hope Reserve. We reached there at 3:30 pm and were supposed to exit the reserve by 6pm before the gates shut close. Happy to make it on time inspite of so many stops on the way, we hurried to take the funicular tram which took us all the way upto the lighthouse. The lighthouse is situated at the highest point on the reserve and offered spectacular views of both the oceans together in sight! A little down along the steps of the lighthouse, goes a trekking path around the lighthouse which again is an experience to be enjoyed. A narrow path cut out on the cliff around the lighthouse is surely not to be missed 🙂 However, short on time, we walked around the lighthouse for only a little while before descending down to see the actual spot known as the Cape of Good Hope. This is the same spot along the Atlantic coast where Bartolomew Diaz, the Portuguese explorer, first set his foot on the African soil in 1488.

I wonder whether this serendipitous discovery by Mr. Diaz really bode well for the local settlers here! Well, time and deeds cannot be reversed. Colonisation, first by the Dutch and then by the Brits is the bitter truth of this African nation.

Cape of Good Hope Reserve – with Atlantic Ocean on the left and Indian Ocean on the right

 

As seen from the lighthouse @ Cape of Good Hope Reserve

The next day’s itinerary included a visit to the District 6 museum. We knew little about South Africa’s apartheid history before visiting the museum. However, the visit left us shocked and disturbed to know the inhuman atrocities meted out to the black and coloured citizens there. District 6 is actually a church converted to a museum in the inner-city residential area of District 6 in Cape town. It is a memorial dedicated to the forced eviction of close to 60,000 inhabitants from District 6 in the 1970s. The handwritten notes of the evictees, various exhibits and pictures of the District 6 colony tells a dark tale enacted in the recent South African past.

Initially, we were surprised to see only Whites frequenting expensive restaurants and places of entertainment & recreation. It made us wonder where all the native blacks of this country are, especially so in Cape Town! There is still a clear segregation between the Blacks and Whites, who constitute only around 8% of the entire South African population. The decades of economic and social repression have crushed an entire generation of the non-white population here.

This and our visit to Robben island deeply impacted us. Robben island was a political, high-security prison where Nelson Mandela spent 18 out of his 27 years of imprisonment before the fall of the apartheid regime. It is now declared as a World Heritage Site. The tours to Robben island start from the V&A waterfront and lasts for around 3.5 hours.

Nelson Mandela’s prison cell for 18 years

We spent 6 days in Cape Town and had a wonderful time knowing a different city and a different culture. The locals were genuinely friendly and considerate and went out of their way to help us at times 🙂 Food options too were diverse for vegetarians like us. There were quite a few Indian restaurants too which dished out quite authentic Indian fare. I am listing out a few eating tips for you all:

  1. Stayed in the City Bowl Area of Cape Town through air bnb (airbnb.com) Many apartments are available right in CBD which is quite close to V&A waterfront. Alternatively, one can choose to stay near Seapoint or Greenpoint as well.
  2. Do visit Market on the Wharf near the V&A waterfront for a variety of food options
  3. El Burro Mexican restaurant, again near the waterfront (reservation mandatory; Sunday closed)
  4. Salathai Thai restaurant, near the waterfront. Food quality was decent, not great.
  5. Sawaddee Thai restaurant, Rheede Street, Gardens. Food was great here! (reservation mandatory, Sunday closed)
  6. Jewel of India, near the waterfront. (reservation mandatory, Sunday closed)
  7. Jarryds, a good breakfast place in Seapoint. Recommended on the way to Victoria Road
  8. Jiji’s juice bar in CBD of Cape Town
  9. Punjab Wok, near Canal walk mall, Century City. One of the better Indian restaurants there with excellent service
  10. Shopping  recommended at Greenmarket square (can bargain), along the V&A waterfront (expensive) and at Canal Walk mall

Well, my South African travelogue is not done yet. Stay tuned for more on Garden Route to come 🙂

 

Sihi Kootu

Sihi Kootu

Sihi means sweet in Kannada. No, this kootu (curry) is not sweet literally but it refers to the inherent sweetness of the coconut and moong dal used in its preparation. It’s a mild preparation with the minimal use of spices so that the true flavours of the original ingredients stand out. It is a super healthy dish with proteins, vegetables and coconut all cooked together in minimal oil.

As I have been documenting recipes on my blog all this while, it struck me that I need to document all the traditional recipes used by my grandmother before they are long forgotten. My paternal grandmother used to follow the Madhwa Brahmin Kannadiga style of cooking. However, it was heavily influenced by the palate of the neighbouring temple town of Kumbakonam in Tamilnadu from where my grandfather belonged.

To add to this diversity, my grandfather migrated to Mumbai for work. I was born and brought up in the suburbs of Mumbai. My mother is from the western state of Goa and my husband is a Kokanastha Bramhin from Gujarat. So, one can imagine the diverse tastes I have developed over all these years. I will definitely add some traditional dishes I have learnt from the other regions as well.

But for now, here is the recipe for Sihi kootu:

Portions:   Two servings

Ingredients:

0.5 cup moong dal

2-2.5 cups water

1.5 cups finely chopped french/ring beans. One can also use padwal (snake gourd), ridge gourd, cucumber, or any vegetable from the gourd family

1 small chopped tomato  (This is not used in the traditional recipe as tomatoes were considered to be foreign food then :))

For tempering:

1 tbsp oil

Mustard seeds – 1 tsp

turmeric – 1 tsp

Curry leaves

hing – a pinch

For grinding into a fine paste:

1/4th cup fresh coconut (grated or small pieces)

2 tsp jeera

Green chillies – 2 or more as per your taste

very little water, as required

Method:

In a pressure cooker, heat the oil and temper it with mustard seeds, curry leaves and hing. To it, add the ground coconut paste and fry it nicely for 3-4 minutes on a moderate flame. To this add the finely chopped vegetable of your choice. I have used green beans in the pic above. Add the moong dal, tomato and water and allow it to pressure cook for 5 minutes. I usually keep the flame on sim and allow it to cook for 5-10 minutes till the dal gets cooked.

Allow the pressure cooker to cool before opening the lid. Garnish it with coriander and serve it with rice or roti.

Alternatively: For better results, the tempering (of oil, mustard seeds, hing and curry leaves) can be added to the dish after it has been cooked. In such a case, one can start with frying the ground coconut paste in little oil and proceeding as mentioned above.

 

 

Raw mango chitranna (Mavinkaai chitranna)

Chitranna is another wonderful Madhwa brahmin recipe that calls for mixing cooked rice with a tangy ‘tadka’. Today, I made raw mango chitranna and the tanginess of the mango stood out exceptionally well along with coconut and other spices in this typical south indian delicacy.

One can have this as a one-pot meal any time of the day 😉

Here goes the recipe:

1 cup cooked long-grained rice (left-over white rice can also be used)

Salt to taste

To be ground into a paste (without addition of water):

1 medium-sized raw mango

5 tbsp of fresh grated coconut,

1-2 green chillies (One can skip this and increase the quantity of red chillies in the seasoning)

1 tsp sesame seeds

0.5 tsp mustard seeds

Seasoning:

3 tbsp peanut oil

1 tsp mustard seeds

2-3 de-stemmed red chillies,

A sprig of fresh curry leaves

1.5 tsp udid dal

1 tsp chana dal

0.5 tsp methi seeds ( I skipped it)

2 tbsp peanuts

1 tsp haldi powder

Asafoetida – a pinch

Method:

Make sure that the rice you are using is cooled and that the grains are not sticking to each other. Start off by preparing the paste and keeping it ready. The paste should be of the following consistency and thick:

Next, in a kadhai, heat the oil and add the udid dal, chana dal, peanuts. When the dals change color, add the remaining ingredients under seasoning and fry a bit. To this oil, add the ground paste and cook it for 3-4 minutes till the masala gets cooked. Add rice and salt and mix well.

Perfect dish to try out this mango season!

Orange County @ Coorg

A revisit to Orange County, Coorg, had been planned again after ten long years… with our little son in tow this time! This resort had etched itself a special place in our hearts a decade ago with its wonderful hospitality, super delicious food and its aromatic filter coffee from its very own plantation!

We had fond memories of the resort and were looking forward to visit it again. The ride from Bangalore to Coorg was a smooth one except for the last 3 kilometers or so on the plantation’s mud road which took us inside to the gates of the resort. We took NICE road and hit the Mysore expressway before taking a diversion for Coorg near Mysore. It took us approximately 6 hours to reach the resort with an hour-long stop at A2B on the way for a scrumptious South Indian breakfast.

At the resort, we were welcomed with a refreshing cool, coffee drink infused with coconut milk. Unique as it was, it was equally pleasing to the palate as well. The electric buggies (similar to golf carts) carried our luggage while we walked down to our cottage. On this occasion, we had booked the Lily Pool Cottage with a private pool and jacuzzi with it. My son loves private pools as he  get to soak himself in the cool, inviting waters of the pool, anytime of the day. He also had a gala time playing with the fishes in the adjoining lily pool. I am sure he must have been some water fairy/elf in his previous birth  which explains his fascination with water 😉

Lilly pool cottage

 

Private Pool with a Lilly pond

 

Complimentary fresh fruits and cashews, refilled daily

 

The inviting bed

 

The lilly pool outside the bedroom

Having reached at around 1 pm, we decided to have lunch at Peppercorn, their grill and sizzler place which is overlooking a gorgeous lake adjoining the Dubare forest. The lunch had a North Indian set menu from which we could order. The food was amazingly delectable. Words cannot do justice to the food 🙂 One has to go there and savour the experience themselves. The ambience, the fact that we were the only ones in the restaurant for a long time, and the excellent customer service made our lunch quite memorable.

Seated @ Peppercorn

It’s hard to overlook the hospitality of the staff there. Even the sweepers and cleaners exchange smiles and a courteous ‘namaste’ when the guests pass by. The resort has employed many locals there and it is quite obvious the wonderful, hospitality training they have gone through.

Their other restaurants, The Granary and The Plaintain Leaf (their traditional, all-vegetarian restaurant) which serve North Indian/Continental and the local South-Indian/Kerala cuisine respectively, are worth raving about too. Granary is set above the common swimming pool and offers a fantastic view across. The Plaintain Leaf too delighted with me with their authentic South-Indian fare like Cherupayar curry, Kadala curry served with puttu, idiappams, kurma etc. etc.. It’s not everyday that I get to taste the local cusine of the land, that too so yummy 🙂 The Ayurvedic touch they added to their food through digestive drinks (like Zandu Pancharishta), and herbs-infused water was a silver-lining to the whole gastronomic experience. Digestive drinks are highly needed in OC though! No guesses for the reason 😀

As plentiful the food options are, so are the activities planned out by the resort for their guests. It will take at least a minimum of 3 days of stay to enjoy all the planned activities – plantation walk, nature walk through the Dubare forest reserve, coracle ride on the Cauvery, bird watching, fish feeding/fishing, village tour, worker’s trail, cultural entertainment program at night around a bonfire, and a story corner focusing on the Coorg culture and heritage right after.

They have a play centre for kids just across the pool and have some activities planned for the kids as well – such as a paper recycling workshop  in the mornings and some games/contests during the day. I guess they offer daycare services as well.

Their Ayurvedic spa- Vaidyasala, offers some rejuvenating massages and treatments; however, we did not book the spa this time. We were just simply busy with the activities, gorging on food, sipping coffee and relaxing in their reading lounge. The reading lounge is atop the paddy fields with a panoramic view of the forest and plantations, and also offers a gratis supply of coffee-on-demand while we browse the books. Truly, a stay at OC, Coorg is simply a complete relaxation package without having to worry about anything! Of course, I mean the cost as well, as the stay is all-inclusive of food and activities – no extra hidden charges 😉

The OC staff even helped me put together a surprise birthday celebration for my hubby and decorated the bed with lovely flowers and swans. A small cake, a hand-written birthday wishes and the floral decorations made the celebration really special. No guesses for who enjoyed all this and the cake the most…our sonna 🙂

The decorated bed

We couldn’t enjoy all the activities as we were short on time and my son too refused to stay back at the activity centre for some activities where he wasn’t allowed. Children under 12 were not allowed to enter the forest or take a bicycle ride to the nearby village.

However, I took the nature walk for 2.5 hours while my husband graciously looked after our son. The walk through Dubare and along the banks of Cauvery was fantastic. We spotted a group of wild elephants just 100 metres away from us. The walk through the forest was a rough one, in the sense that we had to clear the path of thorns and branches to make way for ourselves. These were animal paths and we were made our way through it with our excellent guide and naturalist, Mr. Vishwanath, who made the walk all the more informative and thrilling.

On the banks of the Cauvery inside the Dubare Reserve

The story-telling session at night was another informative program OC, Coorg has recently started for their guests. We were served some delicious coffee wine (the resort owner, Mr Ramanapuram’s wife or so had gotten it made at home!) and were regaled with interesting tidbits about Coorg history and its Kodava culture. The stories are never repeated and there is always more to know each night!

That Sunday, dinner was arranged in the paddy fields under the open skies with lamps and lanterns adorning the night. The dinner was set on the buffet tables, live music was being played on one side and a beautiful bonfire was lit on the other. White, sparkling linen were spread over the tables creating a nice contrast against the dark background. When such great care had been taken to liven up the atmosphere, how can food be left far behind! We were again pampered that night with choicest dishes and great service.

Dinner in the paddy fields

Time flies! We did not even realise when our vacation came to an end. We did not step out of the resort even once during our stay there and yet we were relaxing and occupied at the same time. Away from our mundane city lives, we had an invigorating stay at OC. Next morning, bidding hearty goodbyes to our hosts, and carrying wonderful memories in our hearts, we started off on our ride back home.

 

Disclaimer: This write-up is not a paid review of the resort but is solely based on my visit and personal experience.

Please feel free to contact me if you have any questions or comments. 

 

Bheemeshwari @ Jungle Lodges Resort – a getaway to remember!

Feb 24, 2017

Sunset across the Cauvery

We were excited that we were finally going to Bheemeshwari, a name synonymous in my mind with the gushing Cauvery, Mahseer fishing , tented accommodations, verdant forests and thrilling adventure activities. For reasons unknown to even us, Bheemeshwari had always taken a backseat all these years, when it came to deciding on weekend getaways. But this particular weekend, we had finally booked Jungle Lodges at Bheemeshwari and were raring to go. My son was super excited with the fact that we were going to stay in a tent. He asked us numerous times as well if a tent was strong enough to keep us safe from the wild animals of the jungle! 😉

It took us less than 3 hours to get there on a Saturday morning from Bangalore. Check in at the Jungle Lodges Resort (JLR) was  at noon. So we started from our house at around 8 am giving ourselves ample of time for a leisurely breakfast stop somewhere along the route. We took the Kanakapura Road, which is a double lane road lined up with renovation at numerous places. So our drive was slow but smooth.

There were not many restaurants in sight as we passed by, but around 10 am, we spotted a MTR sign tucked away in a corner of the road. Soon enough we parked our car in its parking lot and seated ourselves for a happy meal 🙂

Breakfast at MTR

 

Kanakapura Road (NH 48)

With a satiated appetite, we proceeded on our way to JLR. The JLR folks had already called on us and asked us to take the Halaguru route over the Sathnur route. The latter one apparently was not in a usable condition. The ride to Bheemeshwari was quite smooth contrary to the many reviews we read online. Traffic was light and the weather cheerful. We breezily made our way to the gates of JLR.

Signboard

 

Halaguru gate

On arrival, we were greeted by a group of monkeys in the premises, who were promptly shooed away by the guard. After checking in, we were led to our tent. I was really happy with the resort at first sight. Our tent was right opposite the banks of the Cauvery and it felt as if we truly were in a ‘jungle’ resort! The tent was spotlessly clean and spacious for the 3 of us. The hammocks and swings outside each tent added to the charm and comfort of the resort. The resort was full for the weekend and yet it did not seem crowded. Climbing nets, ziplines, machans, rope walks, dotted the place and sought to prepare us for the upcoming adventure activities.

Our tents

 

Activity area from atop a tree

The restaurant/dining area was a bit further down the resort. We all had to walk down the jungle terrain for about 100-150 metres to reach there. The dining area was surrounded by log huts/cottages and was spectacularly located across the wide, inviting banks of the Cauvery. Coracles and kayaks were kept on one side of the dining area while a barbecue grill was on the other side.The charm of the resort is hard to define. It is not sophisticated like the other luxurious resorts we have been to but still has all the facilities of one. It is truly ensconced in the lap of nature. One gets the feel of being in a forest setting inspite of being in a resort!

The walk to the dining hall

The buffet lunch was wholesome and delicious. It was a mix of South Indian and North Indian fare and felt homely. The entire dining area was netted and secure from the monkeys while letting in the cool breeze from the Cauvery.

Delicious goodness 🙂
Dining hall across the river

The adventure activities started soon after lunch. We lazed for around 30-40 minutes after lunch before we started with the fun –  ziplining, all the rope walks (Burma loops, Elephant walk..), etc. Soon after that, we were called for the coracle ride but not before we were served tea and cookies at the restaurant.

Burma Loops

 

Elephant Walk

It was around 5pm by the time we reached the banks of the Cauvery. The sun had started setting spreading a nice orange glow in the horizon. The breeze was cool and refreshing. Our boat man (coracle man!) took us around for a good 45 minutes in his endeavour to  help us spot some crocodiles. However, we were not lucky enough! We had to make do with the mud marks left behind by these reptiles.

The JLR staff deserve a special mention all this while – right from the bellman, the adventure activity personnel, the dining area staff to the coracle boatmen . All of them made us feel comfortable and at ease. This courteous service added a special touch to our stay.

JLR Cabin

At around 7pm, it had become pitch dark and the path to the dining area was dimly lit with lamps hanging on the posts. Of course, it has to be dimly lit so as to not attract any wild animal towards us :). Armed with torches and flash lights from our mobiles, we made our way to the bonfire set up near the dining area. Chunks of marinated paneer, and veggies were being barbecued alongside. Not to forget the juicy chicken pieces for the meat lovers! The sky was amazingly clear there to allow us to indulge in star gazing. Seated around the bonfire, enjoying the lovely barbecue, and gazing at the twinkling stars above, made it a night to remember…

Bonfire

 

Barbecue

No cell phone service, no internet, no TV for the entire day and yet we had lots to do and enjoy! Camping definitely did wonders for our sleep as well. The next day started early for us at 6 am. We did not even need an alarm to get us up and going.We were all refreshed and invigorated for the morning’s adventure. Our guide led us through the forest on a trekking path atop a small hill. The watch tower there helped us get a good panoramic view of our trek route. We could also spot the JLR tucked up as a tiny dot in the trees yonder. While descending, however, we took a different route along the river banks to get back. The walk through the forest with monkeys jumping around on the trees, listening to an occasional trumpeting of the elephant nearby,  all made for an exciting trek back to the camp.

Trek route from atop a watch tower

 

Cauvery bank – laid dry in areas due to drought!

Our trip at JLR ended with a sumptuous breakfast. Need I mention that (good) food always forms a very important part of our vacation! Good food, courteous service and cleanliness were the hallmarks of this resort, set up in the verdant surroundings. Very happy with our JLR experience, we headed back to Bangalore with wonderful memories of this trip.

Had Maggi after ages! 😀

Disclaimer: This is not a paid/sponsored write up on JLR-Bheemeshwari and is solely based on my personal experiences and opinions.

Route taken – Bangalore –> Kanakapura Road (NH 48) —> Halaguru exit —> JLR